The rise of modern Indian designer wear: beyond lavish saris and lehengas

SAMIA Khan arrives for our meeting on Monday (Nov 20) morning, still trying to come to terms with India’s disappointing loss to Australia at the previous night’s Cricket World Cup final. But while her heart, like the billion others back in India, may be broken, Khan at least has something to celebrate here in Singapore.

Specifically, the recent opening of Studio Melange, her cosy showroom for Indian designer fashion.

Looking chic in a white shirt embellished with metallic gold beadwork on its pocket, the Mumbai-born entrepreneur is the founder of a business that brings in the latest collections from leading Indian fashion designers.

Melange was started in 2015, when Khan noticed a “huge gap” in the market for authentic, well-known, as well as up-and-coming Indian designers.

“There are many stories and a lot of history behind these brands,” says the diminutive lady who regularly attends India’s fashion weeks. “These brands come from a fashion background and have been designing for a long time.”

One example is renowned couturier Tarun Tahiliani, a pioneer of Indian fashion, who will be exhibiting at the Asian Civilisations Museum next year.

A global appeal

“Today, Indian designer wear has become very modern, contemporary and extremely wearable,” says Khan, a fashion-lover who used to work in marketing and public relations in the hospitality industry.

“It’s more (suitable) for global audiences now, with a huge international appeal in the kind of aesthetic and sensibility they provide. At the same time, they are able to consistently retain their artisanship.”

Still, apart from top names such as Tahiliani, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Manish Malhotra, who have grown with backing from Bollywood, Hollywood and a strong public relations machinery, there are many others which are active in international fashion shows but not as well known.

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“So it’s about educating the market and creating brand awareness because Indian craftsmanship is so intricate, hand-done and detailed,” explains Khan, who says there is plenty of modern Indian designer fashion that “you don’t need a Diwali to wear to”.

“You may want something for a very important occasion or event, or something casual for everyday comfort, like this Pallavi Swadi shirt that I’m wearing.”

Among the individual brands, some are known for their exquisite sequin and beading work, and others for a specific pleating technique, hand embroidery or prints, all of which “international brands will charge you an arm and a leg for”, she points out.

French luxury label, Dior, for instance, paid tribute to the Chanakya atelier which makes its hand-embroidered fabrics, by holding its pre-fall fashion show in Mumbai in March.

Steady growth

When Khan first started Melange, sales were mainly conducted via trunk shows to the Indian diaspora living in Singapore. Before long, the bi-annual affair grew to eight times a year, and travelled to Hong Kong and Jakarta, with sales per show ranging from S$50,000 to S$120,000. Khan also organised fashion shows.

When Covid hit, she started her online business. E-commerce sales grew 45 per cent from 2021 to 2022, as Melange reached an international audience in places such as America, the United Kingdom and Australia.

And late last month, she finally opened her studio at Design Orchard, where she had been holding small pop-ups. The 200-square-foot space is where she can meet and create a bespoke experience for clients. Studio Melange offers personalised and ready-to-wear options, alteration services as well as a wedding and trousseau styling service.

Starting from about four labels, Khan has now worked with over 60 brands, including Anita Dongre, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, Masaba (whose eponymous founder has a Netflix drama series of her own), Maison Blu, Sougat Paul and up-and-coming label Saaksha & Kinni.

Apart from lavish saris, lehengas (three-piece attire comprising a blouse, ankle-length flared skirt and sash) and kurtas (loose collarless shirt or tunic), there are bustiers, one- or off-shoulder, halter neck, wrap and short dresses, jumpsuits, shirts, blazers and pant sets.

Prices start from S$150 and can go up to S$10,000 for couture pieces.

Khan’s clientele are mainly “luxury seekers, fashion enthusiasts” in their early 30s to early 50s who like to experiment. A large number are South Asian expatriates, but there are also local Indian and Chinese customers.

Having grown year on year from the time Melange was launched, Khan is targeting steady growth not just in revenue but also new customers, markets and brands. And if the studio gets “a great response”, the next step is a move to bigger premises.

“After all, if you have the appetite to spend S$500 to S$600 on (accessible luxury Parisian brands) Maje or Sandro, then you might as well wear something unique from a known Indian designer,” she says. “And you can be different.”